Exploring the Art of Silk Embroidery✅

Silk embroidery is one of the beautiful and traditional types of Iranian embroidery. It refers to stitching techniques including short and long padded stitches, satin stitches, and stem stitches using silk thread over a design. If a design is embroidered using these three stitches together or individually, it is called silk embroidery. However, if these three stitches are used alongside other stitching techniques, it can no longer be classified as silk embroidery.

History

Many believe that silk came to Iran from China and that Iranians learned silk weaving from the Chinese. However, based on archaeological evidence from various regions of Iran, this account is likely inaccurate. Pariset, in the second volume of The History of Silk, writes: “Iran and Turkestan are originally the native land of white silkworms, and the mulberry—the silkworm’s food—also originates in Iran.”

A common question arises: if silk indeed came from China, what was its Chinese name, and why, unlike other imported goods, did it not retain its original name? Regardless, it is certain that Iranians have used silk for weaving and embroidery since ancient times, producing a wide variety of textiles and stitches.

Unfortunately, there is no precise date for the origin of silk embroidery. No samples exist prior to the Parthian era. A 20-centimeter fabric fragment discovered in the Moghan Plain, dating back to the Parthian period, is the oldest known example and is currently preserved at the National Museum of Iran.

During the Sassanid era, according to the contemporary Roman historian Manæus Marselius, even ordinary people wore silk garments. At that time, silk clothing adorned with silk stitching was common.

After the advent of Islam, the use of silk garments declined due to prohibitions against luxury, but diverse silk stitching techniques persisted. During the Umayyad period, Umayyad caliphs wore luxurious silk fabrics decorated with silk and Golabtoon embroidery. Under the Buyid dynasty, which still practiced Zoroastrianism, the use of silk fabrics and Sassanid-style silk stitching reemerged.

A surviving example of silk embroidery from the Seljuk period is also preserved at the National Museum of Iran. This art reached its peak during the Safavid era, when artists even stitched their names onto their works. Silk embroidery continued to attract attention in subsequent periods and remains popular today.

Significance and Status

Silk embroidery holds a special position in most Iranian provinces and artistic centers. Using various types of silk thread enhances the embroiderer’s motivation. In recent years, this type of embroidery has drawn the attention of both specialists and the general public. For instance, in Mameghan, near Tabriz, this embroidery is applied to Mamghan-style stitching, while in Sistan and Baluchestan, it is part of satin stitching—a sophisticated form of silk embroidery.

Types of Stitches

Silk thread is derived from silkworm cocoons, and natural silk threads are commonly used in most provinces. These threads are delicate, shiny, and available in thin or thick varieties. Artificial silk threads, sold under names such as Damsa, Amameh, or Indian silk, are also available. Silk embroidery can be executed with techniques such as stem stitch, satin stitch, short and long padded stitches, and Golabtoon thread. Sometimes, French and German knots are used as combined techniques in silk embroidery.

In padded stitch techniques, stitches can be anchored along the design using base stitches. Base stitches can be applied to baby garments or as decorative edges for textiles. Short and long padded stitches can also be incorporated into larger designs, arranged either diagonally or horizontally to enhance the overall pattern.

Applications

Silk embroidery is used to create decorative bands for clothing edges, cuffs, collars, embroidered curtains, the Kaaba curtain, decorative panels, pouches, prayer rugs, shrine coverings, box covers, Quran bindings, bedspreads, tablecloths, cushions, and more.

Fabrics and Motifs

Silk embroidery is commonly performed on fabrics such as velvet, taffeta, satin, mahout, tetron, cotton, chelwar, and poplin. Motifs include human figures, animals, miniatures, hunting scenes, floral and geometric patterns, 60 types of boteh jegheh (paisley), Islamic scrollwork, border flowers, landscape designs, sun motifs, chandeliers, traditional motifs like lachaktoranj, curved lines, birds, bracelets, Roman bands, roundels, star patterns, calligraphic panels, sacred trees, vine patterns, and symbolic or figurative designs.

Technique

Using silk threads requires skill to avoid tangling, maintain straight lines, and preserve the thread’s shine. Stem stitch is often used to outline main lines or delicate details, and may be combined with padded stitches. Satin stitch fills the space between parallel lines, with the front and back often appearing the same, suitable for narrow parallel lines. Silk embroidery is typically worked from top to bottom of a design and may incorporate base stitches. Beauty is a critical aspect of silk embroidery, achieved through proper technique, shiny thread, and fine needles. Thread color is chosen based on personal taste or the natural color of silk. Different regions have their own styles, such as Mamghan embroidery near Tabriz.

Conclusion

Silk embroidery must use either raw or artificial silk threads. Thread thickness depends on the design and fabric type, with natural or artificial silk fabrics being commonly employed.