If you think Qeshm is just bargain shopping, wait until you stand on Bam Qeshm — a Mars-like plateau where ancient rocks, salt caves and a sky full of stars will make you forget your phone.
Qeshm is an island seemingly made to astonish humankind. When I hear friends talk only about bargain shopping on Qeshm and say that’s the only reason they like to travel there, I want to open the SaedNews travel website for them and show everything that’s been written about Qeshm so far! Frankly, I can’t imagine someone going to Qeshm and not visiting Bam Qeshm, the Valley of Statues, the salt cave, the beaches, the mangrove forests, Bam Qeshm and the island’s thousand other attractions. Of course, we shouldn’t overlook Qeshm’s shopping centers and its people, and you should definitely spend one or two days shopping while you’re there.
Bam Qeshm is one part of Qeshm Geopark which is supported by UNESCO. This area has been designed to promote tourism in the Qeshm region and to educate visitors about living in harmony with nature, and it includes a number of Qeshm’s attractions. Geoparks are a type of protected area that are open to visitors.
When you go to Bam Qeshm…
Geoparks are divided into different sections called geosites; for example, Bam is one geosite and the Valley of Statues is another geosite within the park. Qeshm Island has 25 geosites, so it’s possible to visit 25 of Qeshm’s attractions in a single day.
Bam Qeshm overlooks the northern beaches of the Persian Gulf, the Valley of Statues and the Hara (mangrove) forests. Its night sky is starry and by day it can be clear and blue (unless it’s cloudy). In short, if you go to Qeshm Geopark there is an abundance of things to see and your eyes will be rewarded.
What do you know about the history of Bam Qeshm?
The rocks and mountains of Bam are older than you might think. Archaeological evidence indicates their age reaches back more than two million years and that, over time, they were formed as the sea receded. Archaeologists estimate humans have lived in the area since the Iron Age. The geopark area was once home to Neanderthals — a step in human evolution prior to modern Homo sapiens — who later disappeared.
Best time to visit
There is also evidence of modern humans having lived in the region, and at various times artifacts from groups that lived on Bam and nearby areas have been discovered — for example, pottery vessels dating back to pre-Islamic eras.
Within the Bam and geopark area there is also a water cistern (a reservoir built to collect rainwater); its exact date of construction is unclear and most of the year it is dry.
A look at Bam’s natural features
The texture of Bam’s terrain reminds me of documentaries I have seen about Mars. Some of the hills are rocky and stony while others are sandstone. The slopes are made of silt soils (a clay-like soil) and marl (a soil type that forms hill bodies).
As you approach Bam’s heights the soil becomes more calcareous and softer — if you touch it, it feels like flour. In part of the area there are dense desert trees and plants adapted to hot dry conditions that cover the soil. In other parts there is no vegetation at all; instead the landscape is surrounded only by earth, sand and rock.
The southern climate is so well-known that everyone knows if you visit in summer you’ll mostly sit in a hotel in front of the air-conditioning and won’t be able to go out until the sun sets. Bam and the other Qeshm sites are no exception. The flip side of the southern climate is that in the cooler months (from mid-October to late April) the island reveals itself: cool, pleasant weather that awakens the urge for nature trips, shopping, walking and all the feelings you want while traveling.
Wildlife on Qeshm is also diverse: coastal species, amphibians, various reptiles and mammals live across the island. The Iranian gazelle is a unique species in this region and — if you are lucky — you may spot one.
Why are Bam Qeshm’s attractions appealing to visitors?
One thing that puts me off visiting a tourist site is not knowing what to expect. We all need a reason to do something, even if the activity is sightseeing.
The attractions of Bam are soothing rather than adrenaline-fueled — you won’t find many high-energy rides here — although if watching reptiles excites you, you can add a touch of thrill. Below I’ll unpack Bam’s attractions a little more so you have a good reason to visit this geosite.
Bam’s cistern — a house for rain
Wells and cisterns are among Qeshm’s sights and are located in various parts of the island. Cisterns have attractive architecture and I always think about the creativity of those who built them. Cisterns that still hold water are more appealing because you can put your hand into the water, splash your face and feel refreshed. Of course, you shouldn’t do that in every cistern — first check the water’s cleanliness and be sure there are no animals living inside.
The Bam cistern is also known as the Bibi cistern — it was commissioned by a philanthropic lady named Sughiya in 1202 (Hijri? — original text gives the year without era context). Sughiya was the wife of Sheikh Abdollah, the governor at that time. This cistern has an interesting architecture and was built to collect rainwater; even now some local people still use it. There is also an inner reservoir designed to keep the water clean.
Kalat Kashtar village — a village with a mysterious story
Kalat Kashtar on Qeshm is a village now reduced to ruins. Among these ruins you can see small rooms, a large cave-like depression and several wells. Various legends surround the village and I recommend asking local people to tell you the story.
The story goes that people from the village of Tabl built a settlement in Bam’s heights for greater security against enemy attack. In the remaining ruins you can still see traces of residential rooms and guard booths.
Locals say the cave inside the village was an escape route used in emergencies. The tragic part of the tale is that, for reasons not yet established, both the village and its inhabitants were destroyed. Because comprehensive archaeological research has not yet been carried out in the area, there is no definitive explanation for the village’s demise.
A beautiful panorama from Bam
Describing all the feelings you experience on Bam Qeshm is not easy. Bam is one of those places where, when you stand on its heights, you want to go to the edge of a cliff, close your eyes and shout from the heart. Spread your arms and embrace the world, take a deep breath and hand over all your weariness to the gentle breeze caressing your face.
You can sit in a corner and stare at the sea and the shore; then move to a spot where your view faces the Valley of Statues and, with your imagination, invent new shapes for the valley’s rocks. Then move somewhere else to watch the desert or the old village houses.
The mangrove forest’s panorama is another choice for sightseeing. It’s as if you are sitting in front of a giant TV and with a few steps can switch channels to whichever scene you prefer.
In short, Bam Qeshm offers plenty to look at and is made for sitting down, hugging your knees and thinking about everything. Another aspect worth looking up at is the sky: neglecting Bam’s beautiful sky would be a shame.
Where is Bam Qeshm?
To summarize: Bam Qeshm’s landscape provides many views to enjoy. Because there is no shade on Bam, midday visits are not the most pleasant. If the sun is rising or setting, a new layer of beauty is added to the vistas.
Best time to visit Bam Qeshm
Autumn and winter are the best seasons to visit Qeshm and its Bam because sunlight is less intense and weather is cooler. During holiday periods the number of visitors increases so you may find groups present during your visit.
If you go with a tour group, the tour leader will know the most suitable time for a visit. If you plan to see Bam by yourself, choose a time when the sun is not strong: early morning or late afternoon are best. Remember there are no facilities or accommodation on the site, so return to your village or Qeshm town before nightfall.
Where is Bam Qeshm located?
Bam Qeshm lies between the villages of Tabl and Selakh and the Hara mangrove forest. It is 24 km from Qeshm Airport, 75 km from Zakari Pier, and 37 km from Lāft Port. Access by car is possible, but it’s recommended to visit geopark geosites with a Qeshm tour so you can be safer and see all Qeshm’s attractions.
Best route to Bam
Bam Qeshm is on the island’s western side and there are guiding signs on the route. You can go with a tour, rent a car, or use your own vehicle. A land-craft (landing craft) adds some excitement to the trip.
From the center of the island it takes about 13 minutes to reach Bam. Because roads in the region may lack clear names, it is useful to use a navigation app or follow signposts. On the route between Qeshm and Bam you will pass the villages of Dehkhoda, Suhaili and Haft Rangu.
After arriving at Tabl village continue toward Selakh until you see the Bam Qeshm sign. From there you must walk about 15 minutes to reach the area described above.
Equipment and supplies for a trip to Bam Qeshm
There are no functional tourist facilities in the geopark, so you must bring everything you need from the island center. Some expert desert groups spend the night on warmer nights to enjoy the starry sky, but if you are not experienced in overnight stays please do not attempt it as there are no camping facilities on Bam.
Below is a checklist of essentials for visiting Qeshm’s geosites:
Light clothing
Sunglasses and a sun hat
Dry snacks and canned food
Bottled water and juices
Sunscreen
Shoes suitable for walking on sand
A change of clothes
A ground sheet / mat
Sights around Bam Qeshm
While discussing Bam I mentioned some nearby attractions. Because Bam is one of the geopark geosites, expect around 24 attractions nearby. The most attractive sights around Bam include:
Salt cave and Kharbas Cave
Chahkuh Gorge
Gawaran Dam
Hara Mangrove Forests
The Persian Gulf and its beaches
Valley of Statues
Valley of the Stars
Selakh Basin
Chākāvīr Gorge
Bokhu Plain and Mountains
Some of these are geopark geosites and others lie outside the geopark.
Qeshm is a world of wonders in itself!
There are so many attractions on Qeshm that even local people haven’t seen them all. When you visit for the first time you may think that covering a small island will not take long and that after two or three days you’ll have seen everything — but if you ask me, Qeshm has a week’s worth of sights, provided you choose the right travel season and are able to leave your accommodation during the day.
