Saed News: Although we weren’t around in those days to witness and enjoy this royal wedding, reading about the atmosphere and customs of the event—which are abundantly documented in historical records and books—is not without its charm.
According to the history section of Saed News, quoting Hamshahri, it's interesting to know that the most expensive and so-called “luxurious” wedding in the history of Iran belonged to the marriage of Esmat-od-Dowleh, the daughter of Naser al-Din Shah. Although we were not there to witness and enjoy that royal wedding, reading about the customs and traditions of that ceremony—extensively documented in historical sources—is quite delightful.
Cyrus Saadvandian, quoting one of the harem maids in the book Memoirs of Moness-od-Dowleh, wrote:
"Esmat-od-Dowleh was just ten years old when Dustali Khan Moayyer al-Mamalek asked the king for her hand in marriage to his 10-year-old son, Amir Dust Mohammad Khan. The king gave his consent. In 1283 AH, Dustali Khan held a magnificent wedding celebration that lasted seven nights—or according to some, ten. It was a unique wedding that remained the talk of the town for years. Moayyer al-Mamalek candied cherries, sour cherries, and plums from his orchard, laid carpets from the bride’s father's house to the groom’s, and covered the entrance of the groom’s home with luxurious shawls. Musicians from Kashmir and Afghanistan lined both sides of the route, and pearls and gemstones were showered over the bride."
Esmat-od-Dowleh’s Wedding Dowry
Interestingly, the bride's dowry was the estate of Hosseinabad, which was renamed "Mehrabad" (Land of Dowry) in her honor. The wedding was held at Ferdows Garden, which the Shah gifted to his daughter. Some sources claim the groom's father, overwhelmed with joy at this union, added five million gold coins to the dowry.
The maid further recalled:
"On the night they were to bring the bride from the royal palace to the groom’s garden, a large elephant was brought from the royal elephant house. It was draped in a pearl-embroidered cover, and an ornate bridal canopy was mounted on its back. The bride was to ride the elephant, but Esmat-od-Dowleh, only 10 years old, was frightened. Eventually, the groom’s father bowed before Naser al-Din Shah and said, 'If you permit, I’ll ride first, then they can seat Esmat-od-Dowleh so her fear subsides.' The Shah agreed and said, 'Very well, seat your bride.'"
A Legendary Wedding According to Foreign Visitors
Carla Serena, an Italian traveler who visited Iran during Naser al-Din Shah’s reign, described the legendary wedding of Esmat-od-Dowleh as follows:
"This princess, named Esmat-od-Dowleh, married the son of Dustali Khan Moayyer al-Mamalek, who was then the royal treasurer—a respected man of great virtue. As a very wealthy and generous man, Dustali Khan wished to make the wedding legendary and bore all the expenses himself."
According to Serena, multiple grand celebrations were held throughout Tehran in honor of the wedding, with all residents participating:
"Not only were the aristocrats and wealthy invited, but even the poor and Tehran’s garrison soldiers took part in public feasts arranged in different districts."
She also wrote about the bride’s transport:
"Finally, after sunset, a white elephant adorned with a beautiful howdah stopped at the palace gate to carry the bride to the bridal chamber. Concerned the elephant might misbehave, the Shah asked Dustali Khan to sit beside the mahout. A large entourage accompanied the bride. All of Tehran’s elites wanted to escort the Shah’s daughter to her new home. The entire route from the palace to the groom’s house was illuminated. Armed city garrison soldiers each held a lit candle in their rifle barrels. The walls were decorated with expensive fabrics and Kashmiri shawls, and precious carpets were laid under the bride’s feet."
A Market Bathed in Light
According to eyewitnesses, Tehran’s bazaar was fully lit in celebration of the wedding. Dustali Khan had sent thousands of candles ahead of time to flood the market with light. People recalled that they had never seen such a beautiful and dazzling day in Tehran.