How This Kermanshahi Ghee Turns a Beef Stew Into Pure Persian Comfort

This stew celebrates Persian culinary heritage, bringing together colorful, aromatic spices — turmeric, cinnamon and saffron — with slivered almonds, tart barberries and the distinct depth of limu omani (Persian dried limes). It follows the classic slow-simmer technique so the flavors fuse and intensify until the dish reaches what Persians fondly call “ja oftadeh”: the moment when everything has “fallen into place,” and the stew’s texture, aroma and taste are perfectly balanced.

What truly distinguishes the dish, however, is the fat used to cook it — and that fat is the reason for the recipe’s name. So what makes that oil special? It’s the unmistakable aroma and flavor that many Iranians treasure.

Roghan Kermanshahi: the star fat

Roghan Kermanshahi is a prized type of clarified butter or ghee that comes from the Kermanshah region of Iran. Traditionally made from sheep’s milk, it is gently reduced to remove water and milk solids, yielding a golden fat with a rich, nutty perfume. This luxurious butter is a cornerstone of Persian cooking, elevating rice, stews and breads alike. Throughout history it has been valued for its nutritional qualities, long shelf life and its role as a signature of western Iran’s artisanal food culture.

Today you’ll also find versions of Roghan Kermanshahi made from cow’s milk or blends of cow and sheep milk. Cow’s-milk varieties tend to have a milder profile and broad culinary uses, while the sheep’s-milk version keeps the deeper, nuttier character that many purists prefer.

If Roghan Kermanshahi isn’t available at your local Persian market or online, don’t worry: good commercial ghees work well as substitutes. Making ghee at home is also straightforward — in about 15 minutes you can simmer butter until the milk solids separate and the water reduces, leaving you with flavorful homemade ghee.

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons Roghan Kermanshahi, or ghee or butter

• 1 onion, diced

• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric

• 1 pound beef, cut into ½-inch pieces

• 2 tablespoons tomato paste

• 2½ cups water, divided

• 2 cinnamon sticks

• 2 teaspoons sugar (optional)

• 1 teaspoon sea salt

• ½ teaspoon black pepper

• 2 limu omani (Persian dried limes), halved

• 1 teaspoon saffron threads

• 1 cup slivered almonds

• ½ cup barberries

• 1 teaspoon rosewater (optional)

  

Instructions

1. Warm a Dutch oven over medium heat and add the Roghan Kermanshahi (or ghee/butter). When it has melted, add the diced onions and sauté for 5–7 minutes until they turn lightly golden.

2. Sprinkle in the turmeric and sauté for another 2 minutes, then add the beef. Turn the heat to medium–high and brown the beef until it loses its raw color and takes on some color, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for about 2 minutes to deepen its flavor.

4. Pour in 2 cups of the water, add the cinnamon sticks and (if using) the sugar, season with salt and pepper, and bring the pot to a simmer. Cover, lower the heat and let it cook for 45 minutes.

5. Add the halved dried limes and continue simmering for another 30 minutes.

6. While the stew is cooking, grind the saffron threads finely in a mortar and pestle. Put the saffron powder into a small bowl with the remaining ½ cup water, then add the slivered almonds so they can soak up the saffron’s color and aroma.

7. Add the barberries, the saffron-almond mixture and the rosewater (if using) to the pot. Stir well and simmer for an additional 30 minutes.

8. The finished stew should be rich and thick, with a little broth but not soupy. Adjust liquid as needed during cooking.

9. Remove from heat, discard the cinnamon sticks, and let the stew rest for 10 minutes before serving.