Step inside Shiraz’s Haft-Tanan and you’ll find nameless stone graves, a turquoise pool and an old mansion that together make one of the city’s most hauntingly beautiful surprises.
When the conversation turns to Shiraz and the Haft-Tanan Garden, many treasures line up to be mentioned. If you’re not from Shiraz and you want to visit every sight in one trip, truth be told you’d need to live under Shiraz’s sky for a month to see every beauty of Fars. One of the most important historic attractions you must visit is Shiraz’s Stone Museum.
When I began talking to locals about the Tekyeh Haft-Tanan Garden, I discovered how much the people here love and respect the Haft-Tanan Stone Museum. During this visit I also learned other surprising details that I’m eager to share with you one by one. Join me on a historical walk with Alibaba Travel Magazine as we travel back to the time of Karim Khan Zand to meet the Haft-Tanan Garden-Museum.
The Haft-Tanan Stone Museum is one of the oldest familiar places among Shiraz residents — almost every local, young and old, knows this garden. The museum-garden dates to before the Zand era and its existing mansion was created during Karim Khan Zand’s reign by the skilled hands of Iranian architects. This graceful Iranian building covers approximately 3,388 square meters with 988 square meters of built area. The structure stands among the most magnificent architectures erected during Karim Khan Zand’s rule.
Until a few years ago this garden served as a lodge for dervishes and ascetics; today that lodge has been converted into the present Stone Museum. The special devotion local people feel toward Haft-Tanan is not new — this tale goes back a long way.
Locals have long come to Haft-Tanan to pray and ask for rain; they seem to believe the garden answers their requests through divine will. Whenever you visit the Stone Museum, you too might raise your hands to the seven (Haft-Tanan) — who knows, your sincere wish might be answered.
If this is the first time you’ve heard the name Haft-Tanan Stone Museum, you’re probably curious: why is it called Haft-Tanan? The name refers to seven graves that rest in the garden. These seven tombs belong to seven famous Iranian mystics who were buried at the foot of Chahâr-Maqâm (Forty Stations) hill.
Karim Khan, who held deep respect for the figures buried in this area, ordered large stones to be placed on each grave. Because the identities of these individuals were unknown, the tombstones were left without names or inscriptions. The stones measure 360 by 78 centimeters and bear no carved writing; they are identical in size and appearance. Six of the graves lie in one row, parallel to each other, and the seventh grave sits just below the sixth.
Over time the value and solemnity of these tombs has only increased, and today this site is among the most visited parts of the Stone Museum.
When the garden came under the supervision of the Cultural Heritage Organization it was designated the Stone Museum. The museum houses rare and valuable examples of ancient inscriptions and historic stones. These stone inscriptions date from the 3rd to the 11th centuries AH and count among the museum’s oldest objects.
The scripts on the inscriptions include Nastaʿlīq, Kufic, Naskh, Thuluth and taqwīʿ styles. The Stone Museum holds more than a few steles: visitors will also find stones from Pasargadae and Persepolis, pre-Islamic stone coffins, pieces from the Zinat-ol-Moluk house, ancient tombstones and stone works spanning the Sassanian to the Qajar periods.
Don’t pass the Stone Museum by — with every artifact you look at you’re diving deeper into history. I’ll also confess: when I leave this garden-museum I always take a thousand and one photos home. So if you’re good with a camera, this place offers endless historic and beautiful subjects.
My favourite part of the historical walk is the architectural exploration. I’m sure you’ll enjoy this too, so put on your architectural lens. Inside Haft-Tanan you’ll see centuries-old, lush trees — cypress, pine and orange among them — trees revered by Shiraz residents. Move a little further and the scent of bitter orange fills the air.
Leaving the trees behind, you can follow two pebbled paths that lead to the main building. Along these paths all walls are decorated with brick arcades; each arcade contains niches designed to display stones and historical inscriptions. There are benches along the route where you can rest and gaze at the wall-mounted stones. Follow the path to the main Haft-Tanan mansion; I bet the scent of bitter orange will be replaced by excitement when you see the building.
Facing the mansion is a large turquoise pool that draws the eye. The kind of pool you read about in childhood stories — many of our memories are tied to such water features. To revive those memories, take a keepsake photo with the mansion and its vivid pool.
I almost forgot to mention the large inscriptions placed nearby while I was admiring the garden. Beside the pool and facing the mansion, large steles and inscriptions are displayed on dedicated stands; seeing them will leave any visitor awed by their gravity.
The mansion’s pure, flawless architecture reveals authentic Iranian design. The building is divided into two parts, each containing a world of art and the grandeur of Iran. What amazes visitors most are the two tall columns of the mansion — you only appreciate their scale when you stand beside them. Another feature common across the mansion is its arched windows.
These windows are made of wood in different sizes and shapes. The upper parts of the arches are richly tiled and brickworked with the craftsmanship of Zand-era builders. The largest window, nearly opposite the pool, is particularly striking. At night, when the garden lights are switched on, the mansion and its windows look even more spectacular.
On the northern side of the second floor is a very large hall with two stone columns. If you climb the stairs to the verandah you’ll spend a few seconds stunned by the wall paintings. The authentic Iranian architecture of the verandah is apparent everywhere. Oil paintings with figurative meanings were once drawn on two columns; due to the columns’ height and paint fading over time, the images are no longer as clear.
On the verandah ledges you can see the “Five Assemblies” motif — works left by one of the most experienced painters of the Zand period, Aqa Sadeq, rendered with consummate skill. Large rooms flank the hall and are worth seeing. Interestingly, the wall paintings were restored during 1336–1337 (Iranian calendar) by the painter Mohammad Baqer Jahānmiri.
Among the painted scenes I can single out the figure of a dervish: an old dervish wearing a white hat on white hair, his face somewhat melancholic, holding a mace.
We’ve all heard the story of Prophet Ibrahim’s test to sacrifice his son at God’s command. One of the five motifs depicts this tale. Aqa Sadeq’s artistic and imaginative depiction of the event is visible on the wall of Haft-Tanan: Ibrahim, sword in hand and resolved to sacrifice Isma’il, is stopped when the angel of revelation informs him of God’s will.
You may have heard the famous story of Sheikh San’an and the Christian maiden. One of the verandah paintings shows this legendary love: Sheikh surrounded by disciples, the gazes of Sheikh San’an and the maiden fixed on each other.
In the next artwork you’ll see a youth dressed in white, surrounded by a halo of light and flocks of sheep — a depiction of the shepherding youth of Prophet Moses.
The last painting depicts Shah Abbas of the Safavid era. Shah Abbas is said to have worn dervish clothes to mingle with people and learn their needs. The remaining painting in Haft-Tanan hints at this event.
After visiting Tekyeh Haft-Tanan, be sure to see the Kolah-Farangi mansion in Shiraz. This mansion is one of the oldest and most important historical attractions near Haft-Tanan. If I said the mansion has dozens of names I wouldn’t be lying; names include Kolah-Farangi, Bagh-Museum, Bagh-Nazar, Bagh-Shahzadeh, the Four Seasons Mansion, Vakil’s Tomb, the Government Garden and the Octagonal Mansion.
This mansion in Bagh-Nazar was built by Karim Khan Zand and used to receive dignitaries, foreign ambassadors and hold official ceremonies. Even after many years, the distinct and striking style of Kolah-Farangi remains a prime reason visitors come to Bagh-Nazar.
The Bagh-Nazar mansion is octagonal in plan and decorated with tilework in the style of the period’s residential arrangement. Who would have thought that Karim Khan, despite commissioning the building, could not rest there? Karim Khan Zand was buried in the eastern royal chamber of the mansion per his will.
After Agha Mohammad Khan Qajar came to power, out of enmity for Karim Khan, he ordered Karim Khan’s grave to be opened and the bones moved to Golestan Palace. During Reza Shah’s reign the tomb was reopened and Karim Khan’s remains were returned to the Kolah-Farangi mansion — after these disputes Karim Khan finally found an eternal resting place.
A short walk from Haft-Tanan is a historic cemetery set within a green garden. The story of the Forty People begins in the Zand period, when forty dervishes lived in this garden and spent their days and nights in worship. Each time one of the forty died, another dervish buried the deceased in the eastern side of the garden.
This practice continued until all forty passed away. Years later, in 1220 in the Iranian calendar, the ruler of Shiraz, Mo‘tamed-od-Dowleh Farhad Mirza, ordered 40 identical tombstones be made and placed on their graves. These stones bear no inscriptions, likely due to the anonymity of those forty.
The Forty-People shrine is both a historic attraction and a pleasant green recreational space. Tall, colorful trees sparkle like emeralds in sunlight.
Shiraz, south of Haft-Tanan Boulevard, east of Jahan-Nama Garden, Bagh-Chehel-Maqam
Shiraz’s pleasant climate is well known. Whichever season you choose to travel here, trust that each has its own best qualities. Whether Shiraz’s winter snow and rain or its cool spring, the city offers something appealing; summers are not the blazing heat of southern cities, and summer visits are also a good option.
If you want to feel Shiraz at its best, come in spring or around Nowruz. Visiting Haft-Tanan in spring has a different scent and mood; you won’t see icicles from cold nor complain about heat (unless you are particularly heat-sensitive).
Autumn garden walks are among the best experiences, and where better than the Stone Museum? In my view, with autumn’s arrival the pleasure of visiting the museum garden increases greatly; if we ignore Shiraz’s slightly cool air that season, the garden’s beauty with its orange-colored trees is doubled.
Haft-Tanan Garden-Tekyeh is open every day except Mondays and official holidays (religious celebrations are excluded) from 08:00 to 13:30 and 14:00 to 18:00. The visiting time depends on you, but generally, due to the large number of historical objects and the mansion’s details, more than one hour is required to see everything.
If you approach Shiraz via the Shiraz-Parseh highway, after passing Darvazeh-e Quran continue along Haft-Tanan Boulevard to its end. If you’re unfamiliar with the Darvazeh-e Quran area or Haft-Tanan Boulevard, ask locals or use GPS to reach the Haft-Tanan mansion.
Another option is to take a taxi if you don’t want to drive or find the address. There is a nearby bus stop, so from wherever you start, first check your route. Once you reach the Haft-Tanan stop, a short walk of a few minutes will bring you to the Stone Museum at minimal cost.
Fars Province, Shiraz — end of Haft-Tanan Boulevard, north of Hafez Tomb, opposite Chehel-Maqam, Haft-Tanan Garden
A gem like the Haft-Tanan mansion deserves many visits. This garden-museum was registered among the country’s national heritage sites on 15 Dey 1310 (Iranian calendar). May one day you travel to Shiraz on a fine day and visit the Haft-Tanan mansion. I’d be glad to hear about the garden’s atmosphere when you return.
Tip | Quick note |
|---|---|
Best seasons | Spring (Nowruz) and autumn are highlighted as especially pleasant; summer is also acceptable. |
Opening hours | Open every day except Monday and official holidays: 08:00–13:30 and 14:00–18:00. |
Time to allow | Plan for more than one hour to visit, due to many historical objects. |
Getting there | Reach via Haft-Tanan Boulevard after Darvazeh-e Quran; nearby bus stop or taxi recommended. |
Photo tip | Don’t miss photos of the mansion with the turquoise pool and the old orange trees. |
