This Roast-Tomato Cream Soup + Perfect Grilled Cheese Is Ultimate Comfort in an Hour

I don’t know about you but when I arrived at work yesterday I had both the appearance and seething demeanor of a wet cat. I don’t know what exactly the point of carrying my green flowered umbrella was, if to get utterly soaked just the same, making my way through two phone calls irked by a lingering unpleasant zoo-like scent that turned out be emanating my sopping wool pants. Yech! After work drink thing? Cancelled. Pedicure? Cancelled. Tomato soup and grilled cheese sandwiches? Oh, it was so on.

start with two cans tomatoesit's weird but it works

It’s funny, you know, when I talk about these “classic homey foods,” these “best childhood memory meals,” as I must confess that they’re not mine. We ate grilled cheese, but never tomato soup; we loved mac-and-cheese, but all I ever wanted was (of course) Kraft. I believe I had Campbell’s tomato soup a few times at friends’ houses, but never thought it was anything to write home about, as well as more than my share of tomato bisques at restaurants, but too often they reminded me of pasta sauces, excessive at even a cup at a time. But, with times as appropriate as this long, wet winter ahead and sources as good as, yet again, The America’s Test Kitchen Cookbook, this seems as good as a time as any to start making our own, because these recipes are keepers.

from the ovenminced shallots

This time, Cook’s Illustrated crew was searching for “a perfectly smooth soup with rich color and great tomato flavor” and I enthusiastically applaud their efforts. This soup is fantastically rich in flavor, a whole lot more than you’d expect from your typical puddle of orange. More impressive is how they coaxed that flavor from something as everyday as canned tomatoes. The roasting step brings out their boldest intent, and the caramelizing of the shallots in the butter is reminiscent of the dreamy base of French onion soup. You use nearly every part of those canned tomatoes, which I love, because why dump that liquid carted over here from San Marzano? It’s the least you owe your food miles. I’m sure tomato soups can be made with far fewer steps – and admit to tossing the directions to the wind in step three – but I doubt they’re as layered in complexity as this deceivingly simple-looking one.c

shallots, butter, tomato pasteadd the roasted tomatoes

Now, the grilled cheese would have been better had I followed the recipe more closely. I cut my bread class rustic white loaf too thick and spread the cheese too thin, but neither of us complained. My classic Deb grilled cheese sandwich is emmanthel or gruyere, a couple leaves of arugula, a slice of tomato, salt and pepper on bread grilled on a panini, but something as humble and unassuming as smooth tomato soup seems no place for such fancy. We had the soup and sandwiches ready just in the nick of time, as the opening scene of Lost was already rolling and OMG, I don’t want to ruin the rest. Warmed, full, dry and rested at last, it was an excellent Wednesday night.

classic cream of tomato soup + grilled cheese

Video

Cream of Tomato Soup

At-a-glance

Ingredients

Heat oven to 450°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Place a strainer over a large bowl, and open the first can of tomatoes into it. With your fingers, carefully open whole tomatoes and push out seeds, allowing juices to fall through the strainer into the bowl. Spread the seeded tomato flesh in a single layer on the foil. Repeat with the second can of tomatoes. Sprinkle the tomatoes on the roasting pan evenly with the brown sugar. Bake until the liquid has evaporated and the tomatoes begin to color (the author usually sees only a hint of color), about 30 minutes. Let tomatoes cool slightly while you work on the rest of the soup.

Heat the butter over medium heat in a large saucepan until foaming. Add the shallots, tomato paste and allspice. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are softened, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until thoroughly combined, about 30 seconds. Gradually add the stock, whisking constantly to combine; stir in the reserved tomato juice. Gently peel the roasted tomatoes from the foil and add them to the pot. Cover, increase heat to medium, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, to blend flavors, about 10 minutes.

Off the heat, use an immersion blender to puree the soup until smooth. Add cream — the author often starts with 1/4 cup, then adds the remaining 1/4 cup to individual bowls if desired — and warm over low heat until hot, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in brandy or sherry if using, and season with salt and cayenne. Serve immediately.

Do ahead: Soup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days. Warm over low heat until hot; do not boil.

Classic Grilled Cheese

At-a-glance

Ingredients

Heat a heavy 12-inch skillet over low to medium-low heat. Meanwhile, sprinkle a portion of the grated cheese over two bread slices. Top each with the remaining bread slice, pressing gently to set. Brush the tops of the sandwiches completely with half of the melted butter; place each sandwich, buttered side down, in the skillet. Brush the remaining side of each sandwich completely with the remaining butter. Cook until crisp and deep golden brown, 5 to 10 minutes per side, flipping and returning to the first side briefly to reheat and re-crisp, about 15 seconds. Serve immediately.

Practical Tips