Five humble secrets — massed onions, a splash of fortified wine, a whisper of pink in the livers, extra fat and lots of salt — turn plain chicken livers into a silky pâté that gets licked clean.
Four years ago, after my father passed, I began hosting Passover seder to give my mother a break. I don’t usually host holidays — our apartment is too small, traffic too relentless — but I must have done well, because I haven’t stopped since. That means I’ve built up a quiet archive of Passover recipes, and it’s time to share one of my favorites.
The second year we somehow squeezed 27 people into a space built for 8, maybe 10 if you like each other. Card tables filled the living room, my in-laws spent hours setting up, and we emptied nearly three cases of wine. I regret nothing — except not taking photos — but I do remember cooking for a crowd in a kitchen far too small, with leftovers that lasted forever.
Among all the dishes — gefilte fish demolished by my enthusiastic friends, matzo as far as the eye could see — it was the chicken liver pâté that vanished first. Every last smear gone. The secret? Five things:
Onions. A mountain of them, caramelized until dark and sweet, then deglazed with madeira and sherry vinegar for tangy depth.
Livers. Cook them just to the rare side of medium; a little pink inside keeps them tender.
Skip the hard-boiled eggs. I dislike the texture in the mix. Instead, grate or sieve them on top, with garnishes — extra onions, pickled shallots, crispy chicken skin, chives, pickles.
Texture. Blend until silky and lightly whipped, restaurant-style.
Salt and fat. More than you think. Trust me, your ancestors approve.
Serves | Active time | Total time (inc. chilling) |
|---|---|---|
~6 as an appetizer (or more with other snacks) | ≈50 minutes | 50 minutes + chilling (recommend overnight or at least 1–2 hours) |
Ingredient | Amount |
|---|---|
Yellow onions, medium–large | 4–5, halved & thinly sliced |
Chicken livers, fresh, drained | 1 lb (≈450 g) |
Dry madeira, marsala, or dry sherry | 1/4 cup |
Sherry vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
Rendered chicken fat (schmaltz) or vegetable oil | 1/2 cup (total) |
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
Matzo crackers or crackers, for serving | as needed |
Option | Use |
|---|---|
Pickled shallots or fried shallots | scatter on top |
Chopped chives | garnish |
Hard-boiled egg (grated or sieved) | as garnish (optional) |
Chopped cornichons / pickles | stir in or top |
Crispy chicken skin or crisped bacon/chorizo | top for crunch |
Extra caramelized onions | reserve 1–2 tbsp for garnish |
Heat a large frying pan with a lid over medium–high. Add 3 tbsp schmaltz.
Add the sliced onions, toss to coat, cover, reduce heat to medium-low and let them steep for 15 minutes, stirring every ~5 minutes. (This draws moisture out gently.)
Uncover, raise heat to medium, add 1 tsp kosher salt (start here), and cook 15 more minutes, stirring occasionally — you’re still not aiming for full caramelization yet.
Increase heat to medium–high and cook until edges brown and onions are dark mahogany; deglaze with 1/4 cup madeira and 1 tbsp sherry vinegar, scraping the pan. Continue until the liquids have reduced into a jammy glaze (about 3–5 minutes). Transfer to a bowl to cool. Reserve 1–2 tbsp for garnish if desired.
Return pan to medium–high, add 3 more tbsp schmaltz (or oil). When hot, add livers in one layer. Season well with salt and pepper.
Cook ~3 minutes on the first side (lightly browned), flip, season again, and cook ~2 minutes on the second side. The livers should be just a touch pink inside (rare–medium-rare). If fully done through, the pâté will be dryer.
Add the livers to the bowl with onions, pour remaining 1–2 tbsp schmaltz over them, and let cool completely. Chill (fridge) until cold — overnight chilling yields the smoothest, lightest texture.
In a food processor, blend livers + onions until absolutely smooth and as whipped as you can get it. Scrape down and re-process for uniform texture.
Taste and add more salt & pepper — the author usually needs more. If the mix seems dry, blend in a spoon or two of schmaltz or neutral oil until silky.
Transfer to a serving bowl; top with reserved caramelized onions, a drizzle of oil, herbs, or other garnishes.
Serve with matzo or crackers and the fixings/garnishes you love.
Keeps 3–4 days in the fridge.
Pâté freezes well: freeze airtight up to 1 month (author freezes often). Thaw in fridge 24 hours and re-blend briefly for a lighter texture if desired.
Problem | Fix |
|---|---|
Pâté grainy / not smooth | Chill livers & onions before blending; process longer; push through a fine sieve if needed. |
Pâté too dry | Add a tablespoon of schmaltz or neutral oil while blending. |
Overcooked, dry livers | Shorten cook time — aim for a slight pink inside (3 min one side / 2 min other is the guide). |
Onions too wet / turned to mush | Use firmer yellow onions; cook longer to brown and evaporate excess moisture, then deglaze. |
Not enough flavor | Add more salt and a splash of sherry/madeira for brightness; taste as you go. |
Mushroom pâté alternative: try a wild-mushroom pâté if livers aren’t your thing.
Crunchy top: crisp chicken skin or fried shallots add great textural contrast.
Pairings: Champagne or a chilled white wine, crusty baguette slices, cornichons, or a simple green salad.
