Karbas weaving is one of the ancient arts, and in this article, we will get to know this traditional craft. Stay with Saed News.
Karbas weaving, also known as "kaar bafi," is one of the oldest methods of textile production. The history of textile making in Iran dates back to the beginning of the Neolithic Age. Excavations in a cave near the Caspian Sea have uncovered pieces of woven fabric made from sheep wool and goat hair, dating back to 6500 BCE. Karbas weaving, a traditional handicraft of Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari province, is believed to have originated during the Ilkhanid era. Unfortunately, this art has become obsolete and largely forgotten over time.
The main material used for karbas weaving is cotton, chosen for its softness, durability, and easy accessibility. Most karbas weavers are housewives. Karbas fabric is woven using simple, two-harness looms, with widths ranging from 35 to 70 centimeters. The warp and weft threads are hand-spun cotton yarns. The warp length varies from 20 to 80 meters, depending on the weaver's needs. This fabric is primarily produced in the Yazd province, particularly in the cities of Ardakan, Meybod, Kharanaq, and others. It is used for packaging goods, clothing linings, shoe linings, and more. In the past, karbas weaving was one of the local crafts in Najafabad County and a significant source of income. However, with the rise of carpet weaving, this profession lost its popularity and faded away. In Najafabad, karbas weaving is commonly known as "karbafi."
Reeds: Eight reeds are placed side by side in the loom. Threads are wound around them and arranged to guide the warp threads. This section is known locally as "gol va shoneh" and is crucial for forming the weaving shed and allowing the weft thread to pass easily through the warp.
Foot Press (Padfeshar): A leather area where the weaver's feet rest, connected to the loom frame. Pressing with the feet alternates the warp threads after each shuttle pass. Since the loom has two harnesses, the warps move in opposite directions in each row.
Beater (Shaneh): A wide comb that is pulled forward after each shuttle pass to compact the weft threads tightly together.
Roller and Roller Rod (Noodr and Sikh-e Noodr): Used to roll and collect the woven fabric. The roller is turned with a metal rod to prevent looseness in the front of the work.
Measuring Rods (Sozni): Two long, thin wooden rods with needles at their ends are placed in front of the fabric to maintain a consistent width and prevent wrinkling during weaving.
Upper Beam (Qabil): A wooden beam at the top of the loom that holds the threads connected to the device.
Warp Peg (Mikh-e Chaleh): A wooden peg placed vertically in front of the loom for attaching the thread skeins and easing the weaving process.
Spacer Stick (Chub-e Miyan Kari): Placed between the warp threads to keep the work taut.
The karbas weaving loom must be installed in a suitable space so that the weaver’s feet can move freely on the foot presses. Thus, it is often set up in a pit or at the corner of a veranda.
The main steps for producing karbas fabric include:
Carding and spinning the cotton
Sizing and dyeing the yarns
Weaving the fabric
Preparing and readying the cotton involves multiple steps: harvesting, cleaning, carding, warping, spinning, skeining, sizing, winding bobbins, and knotting. Traditionally, all these steps were done by the weaver herself. Most karbas weavers were housewives who engaged in this craft alongside household chores, often providing for their family’s basic needs.
The decline of karbas weaving is mainly due to the difficulty of sourcing quality materials at reasonable prices and the public’s lack of awareness about the cultural and artistic value of supporting traditional crafts. Instead, people tend to prefer decorative handicrafts.
Karbas weaving is among the traditional textile crafts that are vanishing. As a subset of traditional textile arts, its advantages include being natural, skin-friendly, and cool in hot weather. The main steps of karbas production are spinning cotton, dyeing the yarns, and weaving the fabric.
