Furat is a type of beautiful and colorful handmade textile, and in Saed News, we get acquainted with this traditional art. Stay with us.
Furat, according to the Dehkhoda Dictionary, refers to the warp and weft (threads) of a fabric. "Furat Bafi" (Traditional Cloth Weaving), like other forms of handicrafts, has long been practiced throughout the greater Khorasan region. Though this craft has a history spanning several centuries, there is little written documentation about it, as the techniques have largely been passed down orally from one generation to the next. According to one of the elderly weavers in the city, the term “Furat” derives from the sound created when the reeds and comb strike against each other in the weaving loom — a sound similar to the snip of scissors cutting through fabric.
Furat Bafi refers to the weaving and production of various textiles such as towels, blankets, tablecloths, cloth wraps, and undergarments using twisted cotton or silk threads. In the Khorasan province, it is known as “Furat Bafi” or “Ton Bafi.” The weaving loom used has four harnesses (shafts), but due to the density of the warp threads, the harnesses are connected in pairs. It includes a special comb typically made of reeds. Like a Jajim (a type of traditional Iranian flat weave), this handwoven textile is double-sided. The thread used is often 16-ply cotton, and sometimes artificial silk is used for the weft. The woven fabric is typically 50 to 70 cm in width and up to 70 meters in length. Common patterns include herringbone and plaid designs. While Furat Bafi may not have the national recognition of Yazd's silk or Gilan’s Gilimche weaving, it is a well-known local craft in Torbat-e Jam and considered a home-based job that plays an important role in women’s employment in the region.
Furat Weaving Loom
Currently, more than 100 Furat weavers in North Khorasan weave these textiles either using the traditional method or a semi-modern device called “Esteghlal” (Independence). The traditional loom is commonly used in home workshops and consists of components like shafts, comb, treadle, shuttle, and bobbin. The Esteghlal loom works similarly but includes metal components such as the comb, allowing artisans to produce larger and longer fabrics.
Parts of the Loom
Comb or Reed (Shaneh): A blade suspended from the ceiling by two threads. It comes in even-numbered sizes and is responsible for compacting the threads and maintaining fabric uniformity.
Golleh: A thick cotton tool controlled by the weaver’s feet to lift the warp threads.
Rookari: The term for the combination of Golleh and the blade — the core parts of the weaving mechanism.
Ostokhunak: A bone (typically a sheep’s leg bone) used to anchor the loom’s rope.
Gondeh & Loom Rope: Gondeh holds the threads on the loom rope and moves the twisted warps back and forth.
Pooshar: A leather pedal used by the weaver to control the lifting and lowering of threads. The number varies from 2 in simple weaves to 4–6 in honeycomb patterns.
Ghābūl (Actors): Attached to the Golleh and Pooshar, they move during the foot pedal's action to enable weaving.
Ghazband: Functions like a tape measure but is 2.8 meters long. It helps track weave length and ensures the correctness of the weaving.
Takhté or Rookar: The closest piece to the thread that ensures neat fabric edges.
Mako (Shuttle): A spindle-shaped tool that houses the bobbin.
Bobbin (Masoureh): A 5–8 cm plastic rod around which weft thread is wound.
Nourd (Roller): A rod that wraps the finished fabric.
Nourd Gardān (Roller Spinner): A component that rotates the roller.
Roller Stand: The base holding the roller.
The Importance of Furat Bafi
In the past, Furat weaving was a primary occupation for both men and women in rural workshops. Over time, due to market conditions, women have continued this art within their homes. One reason for this craft’s development was the cold winters and the fabric’s light weight — suitable for farmers. The primary raw material is cotton, and since provinces like Yazd and Khorasan have favorable climates for dryland cotton farming, they are the birthplaces of this art.
In wedding ceremonies, it is customary for every bride to include a Furat-woven set in her dowry, usually made by herself or her mother. One of the main centers of production is the village of Bozd in the Torbat-e Jam region, where this art dates back over 150 years. Unfortunately, due to the difficulty of the work, high material costs, and low income, the tradition is at risk of disappearing.
Furat Weaving Process
Thread Preparation: Traditionally, people used to shear wool from their own livestock to spin thread. Earlier, fine silk threads were used, but due to high prices, weavers now use cheaper materials like cotton and acrylic yarns.
Dyeing: Previously done with natural dyes, but synthetic and commercial dyes are now commonly used.
Warping (Cheleh Bandi): Preparing the warp threads for weaving.
Kallaveh or Charkh Tooté: A spinning tool used to prepare thread spools (Toteh) for weaving. These are turned into bobbins using a reed device and inserted into the shuttle.
Setting up the loom is a two-person job and takes about two days. In front of the weaver are the Golleh, blade, and comb, collectively known as the “upper mechanism.” The weaver moves the pedals, throws the shuttle across the warp, and beats the thread with the comb. The fabric is wrapped around a 70 cm wooden cylinder, and once 70 meters are woven, the fabric is cut and used for items like towels, scarves, headscarves, cloth wraps, pajamas, undergarments, veils, and even burial shrouds.
Furat Weave Patterns
The patterns reflect the humble life of rural artisans, inspired by nature and simplicity. Common motifs include flowers, birds, and plants — symbols of spirituality, purity, and harmony with nature. Well-known patterns include:
Panj Gol Chaki (Five-Petal Flower)
Gol Koush (Bow-Shaped Flower)
Gol Samavar (Teapot Flower)
Gol Parvaneh (Butterfly Flower)
Gol Marpich (Spiral Flower)
Gol Bal Neyyi (Cross-Shaped Flower)
Final Word
The art of Furat Bafi is most vibrant during farmers’ downtime, especially in the colder months when there is more free time.
