Saed News: Next, we embark on an astonishing journey to the Palace of Zell-e Soltan, the ruthless son of Naser al-Din Shah Qajar, who bore a striking resemblance to his father.
According to the Saed News History Service, Iran is like a treasure chest, with its historical monuments shining like jewels within it—from Persepolis in Shiraz to the Shaking Minarets of Isfahan and the populous capital of this country. Yet, the architectural wonders of Tehran should not be overlooked—a city that was once the seat of a powerful government, now represented by magnificent structures that stand as enduring witnesses to that era.
Today, we embark on a journey to the Masoudieh Mansion, a beautifully adorned estate rich in tilework and stucco decoration, located on Ekbatan Street in Tehran. It captures the attention of every passerby and tourist—a residence whose exterior tells the story of a long and tumultuous history.
A historic estate filled with secrets from the past.
A beautiful building that showcases the artistic skill and creativity of Iranian architects.
A courtyard and elegant structures that make for perfect photo backdrops.
Crossing through its entrance and stepping into the courtyard of Masoudieh Mansion, it’s hard to believe that such a splendid 4,000-square-meter property lies in the heart of Iran’s bustling capital.
This mansion belonged to Zell-e Soltan, one of the sons of Naser al-Din Shah. Zell-e Soltan, the governor of Isfahan during the Qajar era, was infamous for demolishing historical sites but ordered his mansion to be constructed as beautifully as possible. Thus, the Masoudieh Mansion—named after its owner—was built in 1876 by master architect Ustad Sha’ban Memarbashi.
This 105-year-old estate has witnessed numerous events. During the Constitutional Revolution, the attempted assassination of Mohammad Ali Shah near this estate led to his order to bombard the parliament and constitutionalist strongholds. As a result, both the Masoudieh Mansion and the home of Zahir al-Dowleh suffered severe damage.
Masoudieh Mansion is not just a place of exquisite architecture and tilework; it also holds cultural significance. Interestingly, the first cultural institution in Iran—the National Library and Museum—was established within this mansion. Additionally, a room was designated for preserving valuable historical artifacts gathered from across Iran, which eventually laid the foundation for a museum.
Between 1963 and 1964, the mansion served as a military academy. Another structure within the estate—a three-story building—was used by the Ministry of Education and is now under the care of the Cultural Heritage Organization. Other buildings include a one-story veranda structure used for photography, newer single-story constructions, and a print house located on the east side of the courtyard.
Beyond its historical and cultural value, the life story of Prince Masoud Mirza, the owner of the mansion, is also fascinating. Though the fourth son of Naser al-Din Shah, he quickly became the eldest due to the untimely deaths of his older brothers. This made him the most senior figure in the royal family. However, being the eldest did not guarantee him the throne, as his younger brother Mozaffar al-Din Shah was chosen as king instead.
Since Masoud Mirza’s mother did not come from Qajar lineage, he was never given the opportunity to become crown prince, despite his abilities. At age 12, he spent a year in Mazandaran learning the skills of governance and administration.
In 1876, while serving as governor of Isfahan, Masoud Mirza purchased part of the Nezamiyeh Garden in Tehran to build Masoudieh Mansion, intended to serve as a residence during his visits from Isfahan. The mansion was not only his home but also a venue for hosting special guests, including foreign ambassadors and merchants.
At 24, Masoud Mirza experienced power for the first time when appointed governor of Isfahan with the title “Zell-e Soltan” (Shadow of the King)—a title perhaps rooted in his exclusion from the throne. He showcased his education through fluency in Turkish, Arabic, and French, and authored a historical book titled "Masoudi History."
If you're interested in history and enjoy reading about wildlife, we recommend exploring "Masoudi History," as it includes a section where Masoud Mirza recounts his hunting experiences in simple language.
Flipping through the chapters of his life reveals glimpses of his despair and sorrow over not becoming king—a lingering wound. He was known for demolishing Safavid palaces and suppressing the Bakhtiari tribes, while simultaneously admiring the beauty of Isfahan's historic monuments.
By age 45, his oppressive actions and destruction of cultural heritage had cost him public favor. He died shortly before the fall of the Qajar dynasty. Five years after his father’s death, Masoud Mirza sold Masoudieh Mansion in Tehran to Hamdam al-Saltaneh, the daughter of the Prime Minister. Later, Reza Shah purchased the mansion from her and donated it to the Ministry of Education.
Like other grand Qajar residences, Masoudieh Mansion once had inner (andaruni) and outer (biruni) quarters. Today, however, the inner section no longer exists—only its ruins remain. Nonetheless, the remaining majestic parts make up for the loss.
You can visit seven main sections of the mansion, including the Divankhaneh Mansion, Sofrehkhaneh Mansion, Seyed Javadi Courtyard, Seyed Javadi Mansion, Moshir Courtyard, Moshir al-Dowleh Mansion, Private Courtyard Mansion, Pedestrian Gatehouse, and Carriage Entrance Gatehouse—all interconnected through various courtyards.
One notable feature of this mansion is the presence of seven inscriptions scattered throughout, including above the Carriage Gate, two in the Main Gate, two in the Moshir Mansion, and two in the Veranda Mansion.
Gatehouse Mansion: To explore one of Masoudieh’s oldest sections, head to the Gatehouse Mansion. Not all parts display classic Qajar architecture, as sections were renovated in 2006, 2010, and 2014. Access is through the central entrance, while exit routes pass through side sections. These rooms once hosted important political discussions.
Carriage Entrance Gatehouse: This section features exquisite muqarnas (stalactite-like) decorations and is notable for its functional layout, which provides access to the street through a strategic garden arrangement.
Masoudieh Theater: The estate also includes a small theater for performing arts, offering a space for enthusiasts to enjoy cultural performances.
Masoudieh Photography Studio: To capture lasting memories, visit the studio on the ground floor. For a touch of Qajar-era authenticity, you can dress in traditional attire provided by the studio—an ideal finale to your Tehran tour.
Masoudieh Café and Restaurant: After your tour, relax at the café and restaurant, where you can immerse yourself in a Qajar-era atmosphere. Decorated with floral tablecloths, the eatery offers a variety of traditional Iranian dishes, along with herbal teas and refreshing syrups. Expect slightly higher prices than average, but dining in a setting with over 140 years of history is an experience worth the cost. It’s best to visit earlier in the week when crowds are smaller.
Garden Grounds: The spacious garden features lush greenery, vibrant flowers, and a blue fountain pool, creating a delightful ambiance. The pathways are lined with cobblestones.
