Mountaineering is considered one of the enjoyable and group sports. It is one of the sports that, due to its association with excitement and joy, attracts special attention. However, it is important to note that it is just as dangerous and can be fatal if precautions are not taken.
Mountaineering without the risk of death is not mountaineering, but I am not seeking death in mountaineering." - Reinhold Messner.
Mountaineering is an inherently dangerous sport, and before heading into the mountains, you must be aware of its risks. So, what are the risks of mountaineering? Falling, avalanche danger, and altitude sickness are among the most significant risks you will encounter while mountaineering. However, this list is not exhaustive.
Due to the challenging and strenuous nature of mountaineering, it is accompanied by many dangers that, if ignored or unprepared for, could even put the mountaineer's life at risk. Therefore, before starting this sport, one should become aware of aspects such as how to nourish oneself in the mountains, the necessary equipment and tools, and the potential risks involved. Of course, the mentioned points vary for beginner to professional mountaineers, and here, we are considering the intermediate level for regular mountaineering. This is because heavy mountaineering requires more precautions. If you are still interested in this sport, there are many dangers in mountaineering you will need to face. Some of these, such as falling and exhaustion, can occur anywhere, while others, like altitude sickness, are specific to higher altitudes.
Even if we spend our whole lives in the mountains, it is unlikely that we could create a list that covers all the risks ahead. However, in the following, we will refer to the 20 main risks for which you should be prepared. More importantly than knowing these risks is understanding how to face and avoid them.
Falling from a height greater than 1.5 meters can cause injuries. A fall from over 6 meters has a serious risk of death. Falling is one of the most important risks in mountaineering.
A strong mental ability, navigation skills, and knowing your limits are crucial factors in preventing falls. Wearing a helmet can also reduce the effects of a fall, especially during top-rope ascents. Reading route descriptions, listening to more experienced climbers, and practicing on easier routes will allow you to assess mountaineering paths and evaluate them based on your ability to stay safe from falling.
A huge mass of snow traveling at over 100 kilometers per hour can easily bury a mountaineer, leading to suffocation within just a few minutes.
To prevent avalanches, two steps are necessary: proper planning (avoiding avalanche-prone areas) and quick recovery (having facilities and individuals who can pull you out if an avalanche occurs). Just once getting caught in an avalanche is enough to understand how terrifying it can be. Avalanche is one of the uncontrollable risks in the mountains, and there is little that can be done to prevent it. The main task here is to avoid avalanche-prone areas. One of the world’s best climbers, Alex Lowe, passed away due to an unpredictable avalanche.
Another risk in mountaineering is sudden weather changes, usually in the form of storms. Storms can easily cause disorientation, falls, and hypothermia.
Proper planning and preparation are the only ways to avoid this risk. Before beginning your climb, you should check the weather conditions of the area you are heading to, and always carry an extra layer of clothing and additional food. The best option is to avoid going to the mountains if storm conditions are predicted. Confronting a storm in the mountains is no joke.
Prolonged exposure to harsh conditions can impair the body’s performance and ability to think.
For example, consider working for hours in a temperature of 35°C without water. The body easily loses its water content, and the first signs of heat exhaustion will appear. Similarly, the same situation can occur under the influence of cold. The best strategy here is to plan for the conditions ahead, bring the necessary equipment, and adjust schedules as needed.
Hypothermia is another risk of mountaineering that can lead to death. The symptoms of hypothermia usually start with the cooling of the fingers but can progress to frostbite and, ultimately, organ failure.
Prolonged exposure to cold increases the concentration of cold in the body, and eventually, the body starts shutting down. To avoid this deadly risk, four key points are crucial:
Proper clothing: Correct use of layering systems in mountaineering clothing and carrying extra layers.
Calories: Eating and drinking enough and properly during the trip is essential to avoid hypothermia.
Movement: Staying active is one way to warm the body.
Awareness: One of the dangers of hypothermia is that it infiltrates you. It can confuse your mind, and you may feel warmth and comfort, even though you’re about to die. Self-care will help you avoid this situation.
Altitude sickness occurs due to a lack of oxygen and can cause dizziness, fatigue, flu-like symptoms, weakness, and inability to think clearly.
The only way to prevent this risk is through proper acclimatization. Gradually being at higher altitudes allows the body to adapt to lower oxygen levels. Altitude sickness is one of the most significant risks in mountaineering, especially at higher altitudes. Be aware of the symptoms of altitude sickness, and if they appear, quickly descend to a lower elevation.
High-altitude pulmonary edema occurs due to fluid and blood accumulation in the lungs. Its progression causes an inability to breathe. The only way to prevent this condition is to descend to a lower altitude or use supplemental oxygen. Shortness of breath, chest discomfort, and coughing (sometimes with mucus or blood) are signs that this condition might be occurring. In the end, even with supplemental oxygen, the affected person’s altitude should be reduced as soon as possible.
Brain swelling can lead to confusion, nausea, seizures, and death. The main action here is to quickly descend to a lower altitude. Cerebral edema is the worst possible condition a mountaineer can face at high altitudes.
Muscles become tired and worn out after excessive exertion. This fatigue makes work more difficult, reduces focus, and may lead to a fall or other accidents. To avoid this risk, you should know your limits and not exceed them.
Everyone has physical limits and should work within that range. Physical limitations can be increased with training, but this requires practice and patience. Fatigue can lead to mistakes in tying knots, slipping, and sliding. One of the mistakes mountaineers make is exerting all their energy on the ascent without considering the descent. Energy management is an essential part of risk management in mountaineering. With specialized mountaineering training, practice smartly.
Even a small rock falling from a great distance can be deadly or at least cause serious injury. Reducing this risk is sometimes difficult, as it is beyond an individual’s control. Identifying the route in terms of rock fall risk, checking conditions with teams further up the route, and monitoring seasonal changes are strategies to control this risk.
Icefall collapses, particularly during ice climbing, can be as damaging as rock falls. When ice climbing, always wear a helmet and check for the possibility of rocks or ice falling from above. This risk increases during noon and under direct sunlight.
Snow blindness occurs due to sunlight reflecting off the snow, which can lead to disorientation, falls, or other issues. The best strategy to avoid this risk is to continuously use mountaineering sunglasses. Standard mountaineering sunglasses are designed to reduce UV radiation.
Be mindful that harmful radiation is higher at high altitudes due to the thinner atmosphere. Even at altitudes above 7,000 meters, it’s recommended to wear sunglasses inside the tent.
Crevasses are one of the risks in mountaineering. Glacier crevasses can be dozens of meters deep. Falling into a crevasse covered with snow can easily result in serious injuries or death.
The main strategy to control this risk is learning the techniques for crossing glaciers with ropes and ascending carefully. Crossing crevasses is more dangerous during sunlight and warmer weather, so proper ascent planning can help manage this risk.
A broken rope, a snapped carabiner, or a torn tent can endanger the entire plan and the team's safety. Always ensure your equipment is in good condition before starting your trip. Remember, your life depends on these tools, so don’t use old or worn-out gear. Additionally, taking proper care of equipment at home is crucial.
One of history’s greatest mountaineers, Jerzy Kukuczka, lost his life due to a second-hand rope breaking on the south face of Lhotse.
Summit fever is one of the greatest risks in mountaineering, and we need to look for its root cause within ourselves. It can lead to tunnel vision and drastically reduce a person's awareness of other risks.
At first glance, summit fever may seem like a meaningless concept, but it is a real danger for mountaineers. You’ve been training for years, and you’re only 200 meters away from the summit. On the other hand, a storm is approaching. What should you do?
Thinking about this situation on solid ground is easy, but when faced with it in real life, the mind behaves differently. In such conditions, pulling the brakes and turning back is not easy. It is important to remember that your life may be the cost of summiting. To prevent this risk, you must stop obsessing about it. The summit will always be there, and the important thing is that we return home alive and well. The mountains are dangerous, but our mindset can be even more dangerous.
Various injuries, such as sprained ankles, torn ligaments, and knee injuries, can disrupt our daily lives in addition to our sports activities.
One of the problems with mountaineers is the lack of muscle strengthening. Strengthening muscles, along with using the proper equipment, can help control the pressure on the joints and reduce the likelihood of injury. Along with this, carrying first aid supplies during your trips is essential.
We are naturally weaker than wild animals, and it is we who enter their territory. The main strategy to deal with animal attacks is moving in a group. However, let’s remember that these creatures are the original inhabitants of nature, and it is our duty to respect their habitats.
Hunger and dehydration are silent killers in mountaineering. They sneak up on you and gradually weaken your entire body. An excellent way to maintain energy during the climb is to consume 300 calories per hour. Try to drink half a liter of water for each hour of hiking. Read up on nutrition in mountaineering in this regard.
Carelessness and negligence are the mother of mountaineering risks. This mistake increases the likelihood of all other risks occurring.
Eating and drinking sufficiently, not underestimating the path, and eliminating distractions are ways to avoid this grave mistake. Try to focus more on the path while climbing, and speaking less is one way to increase concentration.
When mountaineering, taking the wrong path and getting lost can create dangerous situations. Practice, acquiring skills, and having the right equipment are key to managing this risk. GPS devices are one of the helpful tools for preventing getting lost. Additionally, paying attention during the climb and remembering the terrain features can help with navigation during critical moments.
